Meet Laura Hadaway
Sailboat Chef, First Mate, Caterer
Kingstown, St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Laura Hadaway is a chef. Not just any chef mind you but a charter boat chef, a skilled expert who creates remarkable food on a small sailboat sailing the vigorous Caribbean waters of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. I first met Laura in 2018 and since then have had a chance to sail with her three times, getting lots of first hand opportunities to watch her cooking in a galley not to mention sampling some pretty wonderful dishes.
Cooking on any sailboat is challenging. In the Grenadines, with its rugged conditions, particularly so. Underway the seas can pitch and roll. With the winds blowing hard, sometimes up to 25 or 30 knots, the hull can heel hard, making each task feel like it’s being performed on a slant board. The sailboat galley, notoriously cramped, becomes harder to maneuver, the pintsize oven harder to negotiate.
Beyond those challenges, Laura is on call for sailing duties too. Typically, she and the boat’s captain are the whole crew, and she serves not just as the chef but as first mate as well.
If you ask Laura if she might not prefer an easier way to make a living, she gives her slightly shy smile and shakes her head. “Not at all,” she replies with her St. Vincent lilt. Watching her, you know she is in her element. This is the world she knows and loves. Laura is not just a fine chef but a fine sailor. She is at home on the sea.
Laura is a native of the Grenadines. She has lived all her life on the mountainous flank of St. Vincent above Kingstown, the capital of the tiny Caribbean island nation. There she lives in a historic dwelling that has been in her family for generations, sharing the house with members of her extended family.
Laura’s historic family residence
At one point much more of the mountain ridge was part of her family’s legacy. But now she and her brother-in-law Greg Allen, who is also in the charter boat business—he as a charter boat captain—have transformed what was already a beautiful piece of land, some 2½ acres, into a spectacular oasis, part orchard, part farm.
Some of what they grow goes into Laura’s culinary projects. As well as her shipboard meals, Laura caters holiday and business events on shore. She also makes hot sauces and teas from the spices, herbs and produce they cultivate. Separately, Greg has accounts for vegetables, fruit, and salad greens for a variety of cafes and bars throughout the Grenadine islands.
View from the Hadaway farm across the Bequia Channel between St. Vincent and Bequia
Whether Laura is cooking or sailing or farming, her pursuits keep her close to the land and the sea, and close to her island’s heritage. The tastes of her history are definitely intertwined in all she does. Laura’s love of her native foods and skill preparing them come naturally, having grown up cooking with her grandmother, her mother and her aunts. She has explored those tastes, experimenting with the huge number of herbs, spices, and flowers she is growing with Greg, dozens of kinds of mint, thyme, oregano, marjoram, sorel, shadow beni or culantro, cilantro, parsley, rosemary, fat bulbs of ginger and turmeric, hot peppers, flavor peppers (for flavor but no heat) the list goes on and on.
The farm and the sea provide Laura with most of the ingredients she needs for the Caribbean cuisine she prepares. She sautés plantains, roasts breadfruit, steams green bananas, boils sweet potatoes with dashin, uses coconuts in a host of baked goods, such as breads and dumplings. She makes rotis, the giant floury pancakes, and serves them with a wide variety of curried fillings: goat, chicken, conch, beef, and vegetables. She uses sorrel, like our flower hibiscus, for drinks, wines, stews, and jams. She dries fish for the salt fish used widely in the Grenadines. Laura uses it in her version of boljol, a mixture of salt fish, hot peppers, and cucumbers, marinating it in lime juice. She also uses it in a similar dish in which the salt fish is stewed instead with onions, garlic, spices, and sweet peppers.
Take a look at the picture of Laura sauteing bakes, a kind of yeast biscuit prepared in a skillet. She’s going to serve that with the spicy salt fish stew you can see in the bowl. We were sailing on a catamaran on this trip, which usually provides a somewhat more generous galley than a monohull – see how the stove top has room for two skillets to be used at one time, a luxury when you’re cooking on a sailboat.
Laura Hadaway sauteing bakes and salt-fish stew.
Below Laura is preparing another local favorite, caramelized plantains to be served with breakfast. There are three burners on the stove but once the large skillet is in place only one burner can be used on this tiny stove top, an example of how much juggling is required in the art of sailboat cooking. Nothing else can be cooked until the plantains are finished.
Text and photos by Hilary U. Cohen