Frangipani
Belmont, Admiralty Bay, Bequia
One of the most welcoming sites I know is the terrace of the Frangipani with its circles of Adirondack chairs overlooking Admiralty Bay on the island of Bequia. There’s an invitation to settle in with the shape of those wonderfully comfortable, wooden chairs, deep and wide and roomy. And the circles themselves, inviting you to gather with friends, old and new. People are endlessly rearranging the chairs, pulling up another one and then another, as someone is hailed from the path that runs along the sea wall in front of the terrace, or a party of friends pulls up in their dinghy at the dinghy dock just beyond.
The setting is picturesque. The terrace is backed by the lovely old, weathered Frangipani Hotel, built by a sea captain well over 100 years ago. In front is the cobblestone Belmont Walkway, running along the edge of bay all the way into the bustling little village of Port Elizabeth. A steady stream of pedestrians makes their way along that path, sailors, school children, local residents, passengers off an occasional windjammer, visitors staying in the onshore guest houses. And of course, beyond the path is the bay, huge and sparkling, and filled with a fantastic array of sea going vessels.
First of all, there are the sailboats, sometimes as many as a hundred. Bequia is a destination for international yachtsmen sailing around the world and their boats are particularly drool worthy. Those of us on serviceable charter boats salivate over their every aspect. The gear and equipment, fancy radar and navigation, bags of extra sails; the beautiful sleek design of the high-end Swans and Oysters, the meticulously restored antique wooden beauties
From our Adirondack chairs we’ll also look out on the stout red, orange and green ferries as they churn their way into the bay, across the Bequia Channel from St. Vincent or south from Canouan, Mayreau and Union, connecting Bequia to the rest of the world. Filling in the lively tapestry of boats are the Bequia sailers, petite, square rigged traditional boats made on the beaches of Bequia, a large number of charter boats, sloops and catamarans flying the flags of their charter companies like The Moorings, Horizon, Sunsail, and a host of service boats – water taxis, dinghies, mobile bakeries, small tankers delivering ice and water.
What are we drinking? Most people have either a beer in their hand – the local beer is Hairoun – or a rum punch. This is rum drinking territory. Fine sipping rums are made in many parts of the Caribbean so that’s also a good choice. If we’re staying on shore for supper, we might have plans to go next door to Mac’s Pizzeria or if it’s Thursday and we’ve reserved ahead, maybe we’re staying at the Frangi for their barbecue and the jump up – pan music, dancing on the sand.
Just as the Frangipani is a central gathering place for the sailors visiting Bequia, it is for the characters in A Turquoise Grave as well. Drinks are shared amongst key figures, secrets are overheard, a pivotal moment occurs right on the sandy terrace and witnessed from multiple perspectives by those seated in the Adirondack chairs.
